Bath & Shower Questions:

Shower Drain Placement:

Question:

What is the recommended slope and measurement  from the wall to the drain of a shower? Can you cite any federal or state building codes that affect hotels or public showers that address this issue?

Answer:

The answer is no I can't verbatim cite the proper code but as you are probably aware each State has accepted the uniform plumbing codes as a minimum standard and with their option to be stricter, adjust those requirements for displacement (slope etc..) accordingly. The Federal Government has a different set of rules as does the FHA and other Health Dept's. I would consult with someone at the State level in your area regarding this as it sounds like there might be some disagreement about application and installation to prevailing codes? Gordon

Shower Drain:

Question:

I am remodeling a basement bathroom and want to install a ceramic tiled shower floor and walls. However, the waste pipe in the floor is not vertical and is leaning really badly to one side, which means the shower drain will not sit flush in the shower pan.

 Answer:

They make a rubber coupling that has two stainless steel hose clamps on the ends, you will probably have to bust out some concrete around the drain and then cut the crooked pipe away. You will need to wedge the new section in  place but with a little work you will be able to set your pan. Gordon

Offset Shower Drain:

Question:

We live in a house with a slab and I want to remodel a bathroom. Currently there is a 34 inch square shower with a drain in the center. I would like to increase the size of the shower to 48x36. My husband is very handy and could make (pour) a custom drain pan and then tile the whole thing. Our question is since we are only increasing the size one foot would we have to move the drain or would it look o.k. if it was offset?

Answer:

Thanks for your question. I know you and your husband are most certainly aware that moving a drain can be a major undertaking and costly. From the appearance standpoint an offset drain is only visually apparent, minimized by the tile work, shower door etc. The drain will function the same if the pan slopes and drains to it, so I would re-design to new pan to suit the drain location offset or not. Put the money that would be spent on the plumbing on more expensive tile and shower door. I hope this helps, Gordon

Re-dry walling a bathtub surround:

Question:

I am installing new drywall around a bathtub.....so the question is.....does the drywall have to fit above the lip of the bathtub, or should it go right to the top of the tub?  

Answer:

Modern shower and tub enclosures are designed to have the drywall lap the lip. Use green board type drywall (water resistant) completely surrounding the tub, back, sides etc.. Dry wall has a factory end running the long sides (the 8 ft part of the 4x8 sheet) use that edge next to the tub lip when ever possible. Dry wall is inexpensive compared to repairs later on. Make the seams tight and then use a 100% silicone caulk everywhere the drywall meets the tub enclosure before you mud and tape the rest of the wall. Hope this answers your question, Thanks Gordon

Shower Installation in Basement:

Question:

We have a bathroom in our basement that only has a toilet and a sink. The wall behind the toilet and sink has plumbing in it and the laundry room is directly on the other side of the wall. We would love to put in a shower but there is no plumbing in the concrete flooring. Is there a lifted unit that has the plumbing and drain under it or do I have to put a hole in my concrete?

Answer:

Typically when you have a situation like yours, instead of the costly process of jack hammering out the concrete in hopes of having enough fall for the shower to drain, I have built a raised floor using pressure treated lumber (2x4,2x6 or 2x8) set on 16 inch centers with 3/4 ply as a floor base to give strength and stability. There are several shower stalls on the market (Sterling for example) that aren't flimsy and very attractive. By building up you have plenty of room to connect to the drain allowing for good drainage. You still may have to remove a little concrete to access the sleeve of the drain but minimal compared. Hope this has been helpful, Gordon

Installing a Tub :

Question:

When our new tub was placed against it\'s three walls of studs, the edges of the nail flange are 1/8\" - 3/8\" from the studs. I understand that the wallboard, (greenboard or cement board), should cover the nail flange.

My question: Should I use screw through the nail flange in an attempt to close that gap?

Answer:

I wouldn't recommend that, it puts a lot of stress on the flange and lip. I would suggest furring out the back wall and the short run out wall all the way up to the ceiling with wood strips, pushing the tub flush against the long wall that probably runs to the toilet. This will allow your green board or concrete board to run over the lip as required thus eliminating any excess pressure on the enclosure. Hope this is clear? Gordon

Best way to seal a bath:

Question:

The gap between the tiles and the bath have been filled but I need to know what’s the best type of sealer to put over the gap to make it tidy and waterproof and also the correct type of adhesive to use. I have used a flexible sealing strip but it won’t stick!

Answer:

Good Morning, The best type of sealant is a silicon based caulk, 100% is really unforgiving, the blends are easier to spread. Cut off the end of the tube at a slight angle with a 1/4 hole. I would practice a little before going for it on the tub. 100% silicon sets up quick so run your bead on one seam then using your finger smooth it out. Practice a little, Practice a little more. The blends as I said are more forgiving and you can use a sponge to smooth, not as durable but easier to work with. Good luck I know you can do it with some patience. Gordon

Removing tub enclosure:

Question:

We just purchased a later model mobile home, and, the bath tub enclosure does not have tiles but has something in sheets that has been glued to the wall. What is this, and, will it be a problem to remove? Thank you

Answer:

The "enclosure" a fiberglass or Gel-coat sheet, they are typically applied with copious amounts of construction adhesive applied to the drywall. If applied right you will have to re-do the drywall once you get it off, which you will want to do if you are planning to put tile on the walls. Green board, Water resistant dry wall should be placed on the walls prior to Hardi or Wonderboard as the base for your tile. Gordon